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I blued and
scribed where the flat head screws would be placed, then used that
as a fixture to locate the hole for the threads. These two holes
must be very accurately placed, the drill point will serve as
scribe point and a small center hole.
Each sill corner and bolster corner was done in the same manner.
This assured that all fasteners would be located in the exact
location needed.
The basic frame was very flat and all corners square.
Nice job ... |
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Shown above is a sample where I
scribed the location for the thru hole for the flat head screw.
Ignore the two big red dots as they were only there to help note
the approximate hole location. Even though I have a DRO, I still do
a layout ... it helps prevent mistakes. If the layout is wrong the
DRO distance will not line up ... if a move in the x or y direction
is wrong the layout won't match. In any
event if they don't agree I stop and find out the error ... before
cutting!!
To get the correct diameter of the hole (0.210") I set up the 82°
Spot Drill just touching the surface then drill down 0.121". The
flat head screw is then recessed a little.
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Drilling the holes for the end is somewhat easy ... just be sure
they are vertical. Here I am using a Brown and Sharpe square. |
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The side sills require a little more work.
Had to move the mill/drill head over and use a V block. Also made
sure the sill was vertical.
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made the slots for the Rear Coupler (and Foot Step). After cutting
the 260 Brass on the Band saw I milled them down to size. Sanded
the edges to get a smooth surface. Super Glued them together, so
that I could put them in the vice as one piece. That way they all
came out the same. The DRO would give me the depth and the Dial
Indicator the distance between each slot. I am using a .040
Slitting saw, which was perfect for that size. When cutting for the
.093 width ... just move it down and make a new cut. Worked great. |
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This is the rear coupler after silver soldering,
trimming to size and drilling mounting holes. Behind the back plate
there is another side plate the hold the coupler to the fixture. To
get the 3/4" radius, some would use a 4 jaw chuck. I used my 3 jaw
and a 1.5" round stock aluminum fixture ... that worked too. |
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I always make a CAD drawing of the work I am about to do. In this
case I was able to use the printout as a fixture to get the correct
side slope of the Foot Step (see above ... before trimming).
To cut out the curve, (see photo copy above) I used a copier to
enlarge the side view by 205%. Then pasted it on the Foot Step
side, now I have a guide so that the curves would be the same or at
least very close.
Silver soldering ... a near disaster. My Propane/Oxygen torch flame
was just too small to heat up the 2" x 2" x 1/16" back plate. Ended
up using 2 tanks of Oxygen (at $9 each) and still not getting good
wetting. In fact it took three tries to get the first one done. The
second never did ... changed to two Mapp tanks heating the assembly
at the same time ... that worked!
I will be changing to using a Turbo Torch for my future silver
soldering.
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Now that the Foot
Step is trimmed to size it needs to be mounted on a bracket ...
since we are using flat head screws the alignment needs to very
close. So I Super Glued the bracket to the Foot Step ... placed in
vise and drilled through the back plate and bracket with a #43 bit
(0.089"). Then drilled the 82° counter sink hole to a diameter of
.190" and we are done ... perfect alignment! Remove bracket and tap
for a 2-56 screw.
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Now that the
bracket and Foot Step are in alignment, the bracket needs to be
mounted on the Front Bolster. Did the same thing as before ...
Super Glued the Foot Step to the Bracket and the Front Bolster.
Used the surface plate and a square for alignment. Removed the Foot
Step, placed in vice ready to drill.
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Well ... here are all
the pieces that make up the Tender Frame.
Doesn't look like much, but a lot of detailed work went into making
these parts.
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The rest of the pictures show varies views of the completed
assembly. |
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| Moving on to the
Tender Tank! |
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